Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Inside the house

We broke camp at 4:30 a.m. and joined the throngs of people in a queue to gain entrance to the park. Once inside the gate, we were still about six kilometers from the legendary citadel. Fatigue didn't seem to be a factor and we quickly picked our way to Intipunku.

Machu desconocido

The sun gate was anything but sunny when we arrived. We were completely socked in, which made viewing the Inca city from above impossible. Still, arriving via the ancient portal was unique and memorable.

Cuidad Inka

After fifty kilometers and four days on the Inca trail we got our first rewarding glimpse of Machu Picchu. Included in the trek was a guided tour, which we joined after storing our packs at the main tourist entrance. Following visits to the agricultural sectors and all of the temples, we made our way up to Intiwatana and relished the view from the astronomical observatory.      

"I was not expecting that."

A farewell meal in Aguas Calientes and a trip to the hot springs wrapped up our time as a group. We were the only duo that chose to stay the night and return to Machu to explore further. Despite waking up to a flooding hotel room at 2 a.m. we rested well, free of our oddly designed six foot long tent. With beautiful weather we reached the summit of Wayna Picchu in the morning. Some onlookers were startled when we emerged from a tiny cave on the unconventional loop near the top. Bones 2.0 cut thirty pounds from Montevideo to Machu to squeeze through small openings like these.  

               

Amantes del trek

The expedition saw minor bits of adversity but overall, we were well prepared and had an incredible experience.

Gringo Killers

In defiance of their reputation, the "Gringo Killers" didn't cause us any problems. We threw caution to the wind and scampered to the top. The excitement of finally reaching the pinnacle took over and helped us temporarily forget about our dinged up bodies and limbs. 

   

Wayna Picchu

Reluctant to leave any stone unturned after visiting the amazing Wayna Picchu, we forced ourselves to climb the smaller, neighboring peak which in turn rendered a unique angle to view the sprawling ruins. This path was much less travelled and we enjoyed the hike and stunning views alone which was shocking for the downtrodden "Disneyland of Peru".

Entrada a las Tres Portadas

Under the hot sun, we returned to the main site to take some photos that were not possible just a day earlier. Still unsatisfied, I ran out to the Inca bridge, accidentally scaring a few folks along the way. 

Plaza principal

Llamasutra

After a full day at Machu Picchu we took a night train to Ollantaytambo town. Unfortunately we had to rely on a collectivo from there to Cusco. A blend of unparallelled ignorance and slow reflexes made that ride the most dangerous of the entire trip. We rolled in at midnight feeling quite ill. Ten more blocks on foot got us to our hostel. The heavy sleeping bags and outdated foamies given to us were overkill but we managed to use everything in the hardly justifiable twenty kilo pack. 

Twenty thousand dollar photo

22 hours on Oltursa's finest took us from Cusco to Lima. Two days in the capital turned out to be ample and before we knew it our 123 days in South America had come to an end. Perhaps we will return some day. We sign off saying thanks for reading. It's been emotional.  

Inca Trail

Kilometer 82

Yo Soy Porter

It all started with aimless wandering around the streets of Cusco. Eventually we flagged down the correct bus and with some difficulty, the guides were able to round up the remainder of the group. The driver ripped through the narrow streets to make up for lost time. It was all for naught when "no passport guy" announced the bad news. It was a rocky start but the road only got bumpier in the Sacred Valley.

Río Urubamba

At kilometer 82 we were funnelled through a checkpoint and onto the famous and all too popular Inca Trail. We quickly tried to separate ourselves from the masses. The crowd thinned as we walked along the banks of the Urubamba River. This was the flattest section of trail that we would encounter.

Willka Raccay

Within a couple of hours we arrived at the first Inca fortress on the trail. Our guide started moving his mouth but the poncho I had covering my pack was whipping in the wind with such ferocity that nobody in the group learned a thing about Willka Raccay that day.

Trail to Warmi Wañuska

After an hour or two of shuteye in the crappiest tent I've ever laid eyes on, we started the day with a long climb towards Warmi Wañuska Pass. We trudged through rain and wind and reached the 4,200 metre mark in under four hours. This point is also affectionately known as Dead Woman's Pass.  

Dead Woman's Pass

"Aquí, casi colgué mis tenis"

After a long wait for the stragglers we began our perilous descent in the increasingly bitter conditions. We were well prepared for inclement weather but the lengthy downhill pitch was surprisingly treacherous. Cindy deftly picked her way down the hazardous course while I lumbered and hydroplaned, compiling a list of near misses in the process.

Paqaymayu

   

Cloud Forest

After surviving the breakneck test and traversing the slopes of the valley we once again found ourselves in the cloud forest for the final stretch of our seventeen kilometer day two. Our campsite was perched on terraces overlooking some amazing terrain. The eleven hour up and down slog was worth it.

El Grupo

We dropped our gear in the tent with the least number of holes and headed to the mess tent for happy hour. We had an interesting and diverse group and used meal times to chat about the unsafe acts of the day and the trail ahead.

En las montañas

Inca Tunnel

Day three began with tea being served at the door of our tent. We faced a modest ten kilometers that would take us past three significant archaeological sites. Cindy was moving like a porter and lead the charge to the Inca tunnel. We were feeling good and enjoying the first bit of sunshine of our trek.

Runkuracay

We climbed to 3780 metres and appreciated the view from the second highest pass along the trail while putting another dent in our personal food stores. Although the food on the tour was quite good, the rations being served were inadequate.    

Ruinas Sayacmarka

The descent to Sayacmarca which means "inaccessible town" was another technical section that required one's full attention. The ruins themselves were impressively positioned, perched on the rocks of a steep slope. We weren't lucky enough to have a clear day and instead peered off the ledges into the abyss below.  

Intipata

Wiñayhuayna

After making a stop at the imposing agricultural site of Intipata, we continued down the path of granite stones, through the ever changing layers of cloud forest full of rare orchids, hanging mosses, bromeliads and tree ferns. Our final camp was set-up ten minutes away from Wiñayhuayna. After dropping our gear, we were able to leisurely explore the most impressive ruins to that point.

Forever Young

Colca Canyon Trek

Cañón del Colca

Cruce del Condor

The 3 a.m. van arrived early and we scrambled aboard still half asleep. After a milk run around Arequipa we sped towards the world's second deepest canyon. Cindy was relieved to temporarily escape our oxygen deprived bucket of bolts in Chivay, where we stopped for breakfast. Soon after we enjoyed perfect conditions and watched the condors in their natural habitat for a full hour.  

La proxima ruta

At Pampas San Miguel, we started our trek into the canyon. Our guide, Marcelo had a wealth of knowledge and experience and was happy to share it along the way. Assisted by gravity we quickly reached the river and carried on to a small village on the other side. A local family treated us to a delicious lunch of soup, alpaca and veggies.                    

Caminos peligrosos

After our meal we hiked an hour uphill to Cosñirhua in search of our homestay. Our little hut had a dirt floor and a leaky roof but it was perfectly comfortable after a day in the canyon. Here we enjoyed more local fare, tea and some conversation with our hosts before hitting the sack.                   

Day two

We started the second day with a steep climb up to the hamlet of Tapay. Rico, the passive aggressive dog from the homestay voluntarily came along. The trail was narrow and somewhat treacherous as it clung to a ledge along a high cliff. 

Gateway to Tapay

Tapay proved to be well worth the exertion that it took to reach it. They somehow leveled enough rugged terrain to construct a nice soccer pitch. We  scaled the narrow steps of the bell tower and enjoyed the view and a snack. After a short break we retraced our steps to the homestay for a proper breakfast and some activities.      

 

Trajes típicos

We started by touring around the local farms, picking and sampling a wide variety of fruit. After picking some corn we headed back to the homestead to dress up in the traditional garb that is used when the communities from the canyon gather for multi-day festivals. After these shenanigans we said good-bye to our host family and hiked down to Oasis de Sangalle where we had a swim under a mango tree.    

Amaneciendo día tres

Day three started at 5 a.m. We started our ascent on schedule and made good progress as the sun came up. A few brave souls paid the sixty soles for the terrifying experience of being hauled up the trail on the back of a mule. We followed the steep zig-zag path up the old fashioned way. 

"Colca. We hate it ... but we love it."

We gained 1,200 meters of elevation in just under three hours. It was a first for both of us and was an excellent performance by Cindy, who survived her first multi-day trek. Breakfast in Cabanaconde was next on the list followed by a trip to the hot springs. After a nice relax, we returned to Chivay by bus for a buffet lunch, where we didn't hold back. I ate enough alpaca meat for all of us.  

Terrazas de Chivay

Moving on to Peru

Welcome to Peru

Immigration proceedings to enter Peru were the most efficient of all we encountered in South America to date. Perhaps the efficiency has something to do with the fact that they don't seem a bit interested in what you are carrying or how long you intend to stay. At any rate, they are accustomed to a steady flow of backpackers making the jump from Copacabana to Puno and have developed a well organized operation as a result. 

Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa

After our relaxing stay on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, we passed through Puno and headed south to Arequipa. It was a picturesque and snowy journey through the Peruvian highlands. A substantial delay in the sketchy outskirts of the city caused much distress for several frustrated passengers. The frenzy ceased as we got rolling again, eventually arriving at Terminal Terrestre and disembarking behind schedule and in total darkness.    

Plaza de Armas

As poverty stricken and rundown as some zones of Arequipa are, the historical center is quite the opposite. The zone is made up of an attractive blend of architecture and concentrated grouping of interesting sights. Plaza de Armas and the well kept cobblestone streets that surround it are a beehive of activity, day or night.   

Mirador de Carmen Alto

After spending one night under the roof of a decrepit hotel, we relocated down the street to Hostal El Remanso. For the same forty soles per night it was a noticeable upgrade. "Mirador Carmen Alto" gave us a good views of the currently green landscape and of Volcan Misty, the guardian of Arequipa. 

Águila

We made a multitude of other brief stops around the city, stopping at plazas, parks, a farm and a mini zoo. An overly eager tourist took a saliva shower courtesy of a disgruntled llama and I got the typical photo with an eagle. 

             

"En Bolivia, no dicen nada."

According to trip advisor, the number one thing to do in Arequipa is to have a meal at Zig Zag Restaurant. We followed the masses word and made the walk. I went for the trilogy of meat (alpaca, pork, steak) with potatoes and ratatouille, and Cindy chose the steak, delicious quinoa dish and salad. The low light of our meal was a Malbec from Mendoza. For us, probably our best restaurant meal since leaving Mexico.     

Lago Titicaca

Lago Titicaca

Getting out of La Paz was diabolical. After weaving through the narrow downtown streets and picking up everyone and their dog along the way, we slowly rambled up to El Alto. From there, ten lines (not lanes) of traffic turned into one exit lane in the middle of an intersection and oddly enough a market. We listened to blaring horns for the next thirty minutes on the way through one “decorative” traffic light. After some more anger and disorganization from all directions we finally broke free from the masses and found ourselves on a fairly decent road. 

En route to Copacabana

The rural route to Copacabana was quite scenic. The first half of our drive featured snow-capped mountains to our right and farmland dotted with huts, livestock and more mountains to our left. The second half was mostly spent hugging the shores of the beautiful Lake Titicaca.    

Copacabana Cathedral

We arrived in Copacabana in the afternoon and had little trouble finding a place to stay. There was no shortage of accommodation in this tourist ready town. After some haggling, we dropped our gear at option number four.

Isla transporte

The next day we took Transporte Lacustre to Isla del Sol. Our "lackluster" craft creaked and groaned and fed us a steady diet of gas fumes, but it eventually got us to our destination.

Terrazas del Inca

Our hike started at the north end of Isla del Sol. We headed down the beach, past the hippies to the trail head. Within a few minutes we were weaving around donkeys, pigs and sheep as the trail meandered along the water and through a few small farms. We enjoyed the unique surroundings of Inca terrace farming combined with great views of the lake as we worked our way to the first Archaeological site.          

Isla del Sol

Chuletas de puerco

Traversing Isla del Sol is like driving down route 5 in Chile. Each time you get up to speed you have to pull over and pay a toll. After entering the "central territory", the trail took us along a high ridgeline that gave us the perfect vantage point to see all that was happening around us. Similarly to the mainland, tending to livestock is also part of life for many on the island.        

Escaleras del Inca

$7 got us a rustic, but private room in Yumani. We had a decent meal with friends from England and Spain before returning to our hostel to play cards. The next day started with us knocking on random doors in an attempt to pay someone for the lodging. We eventually succeeded and set out to visit the remainder of the island. The southern attractions included a handful of ruins, a fountain and the Inca steps which descend to the water.