Backcountry to the Salt Flats

Bolivian Backcountry

The commitment was to jump into a 4x4 Toyota Landcruiser for a four day tour of southwestern Bolivia. We had a driver/guide, a cook and two other unknown individuals to share the experience with. We gave it some thought and figured that being in Bolivia and not visiting the world´s largest salt flat would be stupid so we signed up. Lagoons, mountains, volcanoes, ruins and geysers would help us pass the time on our way to the famous Salar de Uyuni. A surprise came in the form of the mystery twosome that would complete the group. A week earlier in Salta, we met Darko and Lijia. The couple from New Zealand, by way of Croatia and Peru reappeared at the perfect moment and joined the tour. Day one started with a late departure due to a fuel shortage at the tanks but once on the road things started looking up. Rene, our guide and driver had ten years of experience and Maria, our personal cook, wasted little time rolling out our first delicious meal.     

Géiser Sol de mañana

We spent our first night at San Antonio de Lipez. After a fitful and breathless sleep at 4,200 m. in a basic shelter (sin luz), we started day two at the early hour of 5 a.m. Cindy battled a touch of altitude sickness as we passed through a maze of ruins, mountains, volcanoes and colorful lagoons on our way to visit the geysers at more than 5000 m.    

Flamenco de Laguna Colorada

Before sitting down to our afternoon maté in Huaylljara, we visited Laguna Colorada. This beautiful lagoon is a stunning salmon red color and boasts three species of flamingos. Herds of llamas and vicuñas, viscachas and the endangered suris, which are similar in appearance to the ostrich,  made up the rest of our Bolivian safari.   

Árbol de Piedra

At 6:30 a.m. we got the call. Maria spoiled us with a delicious pancake breakfast to start day three. We stopped to take pictures at the "Tree of Stone" and climbed some of the interesting rock formations that surround it. Cindy had returned to good health and everyone was in high spirits despite the bumpy roads and dusty jeep.

Bolivianas

The rough road resulted in a few stops along the way for vehicle maintenance. We had an extended opportunity to look around the town of San Cristobal while Rene worked on a broken tie rod. After spending a few days in the remote backcountry of Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, snacks, drinks and ice-cream availability helped make our brief stop a pleasant one.  

Indiana Jones

Cementerio de Trenes was the last scheduled tour stop for the day. After changing a flat on our unit, we spent some time exploring the array of old trains in their final resting place.  

Foto loca

We got up before sunrise, assembled our group and sped out to the salt flats in total darkness. Initially we were driving slowly through knee deep water but as the water level decreased our speed increased. As the sun rose, we were surrounded by the vast salt flat and busy taking "fotos locas". At nearly 11,000 square kilometers, Salar de Uyuni is certainly unique and standing on it is surreal.     

Salar de Uyuni